On island time

Tuesday, May 19, 2015

Gorgeous breakfast buffet in our hotel with great views of the harbor.  Everything was delicious.  Our mission of the morning (those of us who have not previously visited Myconos) was to take the first ferry to the small island of Delos, just two miles away and tour on our own.  If you are familiar with Greek mythology, Delos is the island where the twins, Artemis and Apollo, offspring of Zeus and Leto were born.  Hera, Zeus's wife, was so angry over Zeus's infidelity that she banished Leto from earth.  Poisedon took pity on her, however, and allowed her to give birth on the island of Delos (translation, Brilliant). Most of the excavated ruins center around the theme of honoring Apollo.  My favorite site was the Terrace of Lions which originally overlooked the Sacred Lake (now drained) where the sacred geese and swans of Apollo swam.

We took our return ferry back to Myconos and several cousins had their rented four wheelers ready to ride.  Carter and I had decided to forgo that mode of transportation this time, so we ate lunch and then took a cab to Ornos Beach.  Our taxi driver truly delighted in terrifying me.  He drove fast, passed cars on curves, laughed as we tightened our seat belts.  Thank goodness we survived our 'Crazy Greek's Wild Ride,' because the beach was lovely.  Lounge chairs with umbrellas to rent and fair winds made for a delightful afternoon.

After returning to Harmony Boutique, we all enjoyed cocktails on the pool deck and then had supper together.

It was a fabulous meal and the famed white pelican of Myconos even walked past our table.  More shopping wrapped up the evening with Dennis presenting Tuffy with a very special necklace as a token of the trip.

Planes, trains, vans, ATVs, and now, at last, BOATS Monday, May 18, 2015

Monday, May18, 2015

Today we left Santorini, sadly waving good-bye to Katie, Zach, and Ryan as we loaded our van to head to the port.  They all had to get back to work and so were spending a final day in Santorini,after which Zach and Ryan would head home to Brussels and Katie would begin her flights home to Columbus.  (She ended up being delayed in Athens, missing her connection, and spending a night in New York, but was lucky that her Uncle Bill was home and could rescue her for the night.)  We arrived at the port in Santorini in plenty of time to catch our Master Jet ferry to Mykonos.  Chris had recommended that we all splurge for the club class seats, so we were all sitting together with great views of the sea and islands.  There was a coffee and snack bar, so it was a very pleasant ride.  Upon docking, there is a kind of herd effect when gathering your luggage from the holding area and leaving the boat, but our transfer van driver holding his 'Chris Pappas' sign was there waiting for us to drive us to our lovely hotel.  One slightly unsettling moment as we all simultaneously realized that he was driving away with the luggage door open....luckily no bags spilled out.  Our hotel was the Harmony Boutique situated at the merge of the old and new harbors and a very easy walk to restaurants and shopping.  Everything was blue and white like I had always pictured when thinking of the Greek islands.  All of our rooms were serene with individual balconies and patios.  There was a beautiful pool in the front of the hotel with a great bar and fabulous views of the harbor.

After checking in, we walked into the shopping district and found more delcious gyros for lunch and then everyone scattered on various shopping/coffee/pastry missions.  Chris and Amy began serious jewelry negotiations.  Others found soft Greek cotton shirts, sterling earrings and necklaces, etc.  The shops were in a maze of streets and it was easy for the directionally challenged like myself to get lost, but there was always another great store, cafe, or speak-easy around the next bend.  This shopping district was a lot less hilly than in Santorini, so that was very nice.  Mykonos, while still full of history, had a more tropical feel.  I really liked it.

We met at the hotel's pool bar for sunset cocktails.  Beautiful!  Then, we walked into town for supper al fresco and planned for our next day on this magical island.

It's A Santorini Kind of Sunday -Sunday, May 17,2015

Sunday, May 17. 2015

We had to walk to the ferry ticket office to pick up our tickets for tomorrow's departure. so that was our first mission of the day.  It was easy.  We chose our different paths for the rest of the day, so Carter and I rented a four-wheeler along with Dorris, Emily, Star, Katie, Ryan, and Zach.  We looked like a very unassuming little biker gang cruising around the island.  It was so much fun.  We drove to Perissa Beach and relaxed in beach chairs for a couple of hours.  Our cute waiter brought us our lunch and drinks.  A little shopping later and we were back on the open road heading towards the Thera Archaeological Museum.  Very cool place, as a museum building has been built around the excavated ruins.

We next headed to Red Beach, which is very cool looking. You have to climb a rocky slope and then walk along the edge of the cliff and down to reach the beach.  While Carter was videoing the descent of our cousins along the ridge, I slipped on some rocks, so we never made it to the beach.  I have a few more bruises to add to the one from getting out of the van in the dark the other night.  I will return home looking more like I have been to some kind of survival camp, I fear.  Anyway, after this crimson stop, it was back to the Ersi Villas.

We met up later to watch the sunset, but some shoppers among us were pulled away by the call of stores closing at 9 pm. Stacia, Emily, Star, Carter, and I hurried to the Konsantino store in search of fabulous jewelry.  Our quest was rewarded and we all left happy (except Carter really didn't know what we were shopping for when he hurried off with us; he mostly just told us how incredible everything looked on us).

We met up with the family for a wonderful dinner on the top terrace of Taverna Simos.  It was perfectly delightful and was made very special by the personable waiter, Alex.  It was a great note to end our time on the lovely island of Santorini.  We leave tomorrow for Mykonos.

Our not so calm departure - Saturday, May 16, 215

Saturday, May 16, 2015

One thing that is very important to understand if you are traveling with Chris Pappas is that he is a morning person.  If you don't leave early, you are just missing part of the day at your destination. Thus, we all booked the same flight that he, Amy, Alexi, and Konstantina were on from Thessaloniki to Athens and then on to Santorini.  This meant getting up at 3:30 am to load our vans by 4:15 to drive to the airport and make our 7:20 flight.  It was settled.  Everyone set their alarms and we were on track.  Sometime around 3:30, Dennis happened to look at his and Stacia's tickets and realized that he had evidently booked the first flight of the morning at 6:40 ( I think if Chris had known of the existence of this earlier flight, we would have all been on it).  Anyway, panic ensued.  Thank goodness we had the entire hotel to ourselves, because there was some yelling going on.  It was quite dark and we are throwing suitcases into vans, getting ourselves in, and driving to the airport at a slightly uncomfortable speed.  Luckily, the rest of the world around us seemed to be sleeping.  All's well that ends well, and it was fine.  Dennis and Stacia made their flight and were waiting for us in Athens to board the next leg.  By the way, Aegean Airlines has the most beautiful, stylish flight attendants I have ever seen.

There was another hiccup with Tori and Vickie's flights home in that their connection in Munich was going to be very tight, so there was concern that they might miss their flight to the states.  We all felt better when Vickie texted that they barely made it onto their connection.  It was sad to see them leave us, but after all Tori is getting married in two weeks.  They had a few things to do at home.

For some reason, at the Athens Airport we had to go back through security.  This was not so good for me and Star.  Without really thinking about it, we had put our beautiful gift baskets from the family in our carry-on bags.  There wasn't a problem at Thessaloniki, but in Athens they caught it and pulled our bottles of ouzo, olive oil, olives, and honey.  I burst into tears at the thought of these beautiful, handmade things being tossed in a trash can.  Fortunately, we had plenty of time, so we were able to check the bags and keep our gifts (at an price of $30 per bag).

Upon arrival, we were greeted by a transportation van to get us and our luggage to our cute hotel.  That's another thing you should know about traveling with Chris Pappas......he does not miss a single detail.  After checking into our rooms at the Ersi Villas (we filled the majority of the hotel), we walked along the waterfront and had lunch on a high terrace restaurant with a great view.  Dennis generously bought everyone's lunch as an apology for the confusion of the morning departure.  It was totally unnecessary, but so very nice.  We walked around and shopped in the large shopping district during the afternoon.

That evening, Zach, Ryan, and Katie had found an ideally located wine bar to watch the sunset and sample some Santorini wines.  The sunset was beautiful.  We then walked to find McDaniel's Gyros.  I know it doesn't sound copasetic, but the gyros were fabulous.  Inspired by our perfect evening thus far, we pushed the envelope and went to a couple of bars, shot pool, drank watered down two for ones and then found a good DJ.  For some strange reason at the second bar, the DJ played some Credence Clearwater, some Aretha, then launched into 'Sweet Home Alabama.'  I think we were being geographically profiled, but it was so fun.  We older cousins left around midnight and Carter, Zach, Ryan, and Katie kept going for awhile longer.  It was a very large time.

One note.....Carter packed his gift basket items into his checked luggage like he was supposed to, however, the bottle of olive oil was broken when he unpacked his bag.  He has maybe three pieces of clothing that do not have olive oil on them.  My olives leaked in my bag also, so I lost a few outfits too.  Further note,  soap and water and a sink do not remove olive oil from fabric.  If you know how to remove olive oil from fabric, please comment below as this will be one of my first tasks upon my return home.  In the meantime, any pictures of Carter from here on may all be in the same clothes.  Yet, who can cry over spilled oil when you are in Santorini, Greece?!    

Sea and Sky - Friday, May 15, 2015

Boo-Boo and Tuffy enjoy breakfast overlooking the Aegean Sea at Porto Valitsa

Friday 15 May 8:00 a.m. Porto Valitsa Hotel, Paliouri. 64 F. Partly cloudy. Breakfast on terrace looking out over the Aegean Sea with Boo Boo the Greek kitty trying to eat off the table. After a short drive to the large beach around the point, we boarded the Leftoros for a morning cruise to the uninhabited island of Kelifos. Actually the island has residents: a herd of wild brush goats wander the high areas. After a few Mythos beers, the diving began. Some in swim suits, some in their underwear. Water was cold but refreshing and clear.

1350 hrs: Drove to Christos' house in Paliouri for a "Hayride" in the back of a bee hive truck to the mountain fields where "Big" Giannis puts out their bees. We traveled over roads with shear drops off both sides. It was good it was an all-wheel drive Mercedes truck. When got to the top, we could see the ocean off both sides of the Kassandra peninsula. Christos and Theo walked the areas where they herded goats.

1550 hrs: returned to town for a brief soccer match at the town's fotbol stadium with views of the sea. Nikkos  Matami was a former pro player and can still dribble with skill. He could have scored on me at will but would pass to others near the goal. Young Giannis (on leave from the Greek army) showed some good moves also. The Matami triplets were fun to play with too. Made a few stops but Tori Krutzer blasted one high into the corner of the net for the winning score. We only lost one player to injury (Ryan).  Many would be sore in the morning. Soccer balls are surprisingly hard.

A tearful farewell

1900 hrs: Farewell dinner at Despina and Nikko's house. There were exchanges of tearful toasts and some handmade gifts of olives and honey. We could only offer booze. Triandifyllia (30 leaves) had her gift from Amy Pappas of an "Olaf" doll in a place of honor near her Pegasus doll. We showed the Greek cousins slides of our family pictures. Next time, we would be advised to impose a slide limit. In any event, slides showing our houses, boats and cars were of greater interest to our hosts. Saying goodbye- especially to Christos-was hard. Greg Pappas was bawling like a baby after Christos said (translated by Konstantina) he wanted us to return even if he was not still alive. We will miss our little troll doll, Christos, and his infectious smile. He was proudly wearing his "Alabama" pin as he waved us farewell. Greg wants to see "Greek 1" again in two years. Given their amazing stamina, my bet is that he will.

A Night to Remember - Thursday night, May 14 2015

Continuing on Thursday afternoon (May 14th), we had some free time in the afternoon.  Some shopped, some went to the beach, and others napped.  Then, it was time to get ready for the huge Papanikolaou Family Reunion Party.  We all arrived together and were greeted warmly.  The tables were beautifully decorated with wildflower arrangements and Greek and American flag centerpieces.  A huge welcome banner hung in front of the doors to the school.  We were taken inside to tour the building and saw the pictures of our grandparents hanging in the hallway.  Some old family photos had been enlarged and were also on display.  Seeing this picture of my mother with Uncle Pete working in the Pappas Restaurant in Eufaula brought tears to my eyes.

There was a goat on a spit plus many other meats on the grills (the meal was catered by a local restaurant and was delicious and plentiful.)  Live music and Greek dancers added to the enjoyment.  It was such a perfect event in a beautiful setting that it was almost surreal.  "Is this really my life or am I dreaming it?"  Before dinner, both the Greek National Anthem and the Star Spangled Banner were played.  We were all so proud to be both Greek and American that tears streamed down many of our faces as we sang.  We, of course, ate and drank and danced and danced and danced.  A circle of fire was lighted around some dancers.  Napkins were tossed in the air (in lieu of breaking plates, I believe), and then the hunters among us (several men and Tori) were invited to shoot guns.  Not sure why....it's just something they do.  Special day-glo hats and vests were given to all shooting participants.  Desserts followed.  More wine, more dancing, and young Giannis (home for the weekend from the Greek Army) invited many of our younger folks to join him in shots of tequila.  Finally, we had to let the party wind down like a favorite toy at the end of a complete day.

  You know, as Southerners, we pride ourselves on the hospitality we display to our guests, but I have to say that I have never experienced anything like what this family and this community did for us.  We felt so honored, so loved, so humbled that I cannot even put it into words.  That night, especially, is something that I will never forget.

  

Our Greek family is amazing - Wednesday, May 13 and the day of Thursday, May 14, 2015

We had an incredible time in Paliouri and Paraskevi meeting our family and participating in so many great activities and events.  The villas that Chris found for us were incredible.  Porto Valitsa was the name and we filled the entire complex.  Each villa was both lovely and unique, and the staff there were wonderful to us all.  Leon and the other dogs made us miss our own furry family a little less.

The only downside was a very poor internet connection that came and went (mostly went) and made it impossible to blog.  Some of us were able to post on Instagram here and there. To begin to summarize the events beginning on Wednesday, we left Athens early in the morning via train and arrived in Thessaloniki where Giannis and Lambrose met us with a empty pick-up truck to carry our luggage to the villas in Paliouri.  We rented three large vans to transport ourselves.  Greg (now known as Gregorius), Chris, and Dennis were our devoted drivers.  Our first engagement was dinner at cousin Despina's home.  We were overwhelmed with the loving display of hospitality.  Long tables decorated beautifully greeted us upon arrival, and we were served cocktails, figs, and given corsages.  The meal was incredible.  We brought gifts for the children and beverages for the adults.  Konstantina and Theo stayed busy interpreting for us.  There was music, dancing and fellowship.



Thursday morning was a truly special day.  Breakfast at the villas was wonderful.  Then, we all went to Paliouri to the church for a special service where the priest blessed our family.  This was even more special because this priest was present at the original dedication of the school Grandpa built in the village of Paraskevi.  The service was very moving, and Nektaria made coffee and had cookies for us in the courtyard afterwards.

Next, we drove to Paraskevi to see the Gregory Pappas School.  We only saw the outside in the morning, as the community wanted to save many things as a surprise for that night when the huge party took place.  The school sits high on a hill overlooking the village and is still a very pretty building.  The original playground equipment still sits in the school yard.

Uncle Theo told me that he had offered to pay someone to paint the school for the celebration, but the community told him that they would be honored to paint it for the family of Gregory Pappas.  We continued to be awed with the generosity of these lovely people.  The building is no longer used as a school, because the population of Paraskevi has diminished, but is now utilized as a community center.

We walked through the village and went to Grandpa's boyhood home, which is now unoccupied.  We got to go inside.  It was very moving to see the humble abode of our grandfather and realize what it must have meant to send him to America at the age of 14 in search of a better life.  A neighbor living next door saw us and cut roses from her garden to give to us.  Again, the capacity to give and give was overwhelming.

Then, we walked to the town museum which they opened that day just for us.  What a lovely museum  tracing the history of the Greek people and honoring those from the village .  We then found our Aunt Zafero's house and met her.  She is 95 years old and babysat Uncle Theo when he was a young boy. She was named after our grandfather's mother, who was also Zafero.  His grandmother's name was Helen, for whom he named my mother and she named me.  

After all of this visiting, we returned to Porto Valitsa for lunch and afternoon activities.  Some folks went to the beach.  Some went shopping.

I will stop here for tonight, as it is late and there is so much more to tell.......  I will try to continue to catch up tomorrow.

Another Day, another ruin - Tuesday, May 12, 2015

We started the day early to be at the Parthenon when it opened for the best uncrowded group photos possible.  The pictures are going to be fantastic, and once again, even Uncles Theo and Christos made the climb with us.  Everywhere we go, Uncle Theo tells folks that we are his American Greek family come to visit.  He has an infectious laugh and loving spirit.  We also saw the Temple of Zeus and the Olympic Stadium (completely marble).  Chris snagged a free selfie stick when he purchased a tripod, so Tori took several group selfies.  Hope to get one to post on the blog soon.

Our site seeing was finished before lunch and everyone scattered for their own desired activities.  A lot of shopping took place, I fear.  Carter and I decided that we had to try McDonalds while in Greece.  I ordered the Greek Mac meal.  Not bad.

Dinner together tonight with live music.  They even played "Sweet Home Alabama" in our honor.  Dennis was celebrating a birthday, so the chef sent out cake and ice cream and we sang "Happy Birthday."  Uncle Christos danced a little for us.  More shopping on the way back to our hotels.  Tomorrow is yet another early day as the train leaves the station a 7:18.  All aboard to Thessaloniki.

Meet me at the fountain - Monday, May 11, 2015

That's what we Pappi do in the a.m. and p.m.  Meet up at the fountain in Syntagma Square.   We were there this morning to see an old man who feeds many of the stray dogs that seem to live all over the city of Athens.  They are all large, calm dogs who mostly sleep on sidewalks and parks,  and peacefully coexist with the many people who bustle by them.  It appeared that this particular caretaker had visited restaurants throughout the district and brought armfuls of takeout bags of scraps which he served to his many dog friends.  He then moved on to crumbs for the pigeons.  Kindness takes many shapes, does it not?

We jumped ahead of a large school field trip and got into the Acropolis Museum early.  What an interesting place, actually built atop some of the ruins with plexiglas floors so that you may see the foundation.  So many artifacts and a really informative movie.  

We also shopped and tried to abide by Chris's advice that if the shopkeeper isn't angry when you leave, you didn't negotiate a good deal.  I think I was successful at least once.  It never feels like a vacation until I buy a new pair of earrings.....

Of course, we ate and ate.  Many pics were posted on our instagram (#pappidogreece).  We climbed rocks (even Uncle Theo who seems to continually shame us all with his agility and fitness, as he is never the one breathing hard on these

adventures), visited the Temple of Hephaestus, walked through the flea market, and walked and walked and walked.

The day came to a close with two trays of Greek pastries consumed in a outdoor pavillion.  Then we split off for night caps....I chose to listen to the pianist at the Grand Bretagne with Vickie, Dorris, and Star, and my darling Carter, our handsome escort.

History Lessons

Greek 1 (Christos) and Greek 2 (Theo)

You learn so much during travel to ancient historic places like Greece. I am not talking about Zan learning for the first time the six year old SUV she drives every day has a CD player. And I am not talking about seeing little 90 year old men (Theo and "brother" Chris) carrying luggage, walking stairs and sightseeing Athens all day with the stamina of mountain goats. What I am talking about is visiting a country that as recently as 1947 won its independence from Turkish rule. A country where the guards of the tomb of their unknown soldier wear skirts with 300 pleats to remind them of the 300 year oppression of Moslem kings. A country where they erected a statue (see Helen's post) to a Greek Orthodox priest who, when ordered by Nazi occupiers to provide a list of Jews in Athens gave them a list with only one name: His. Finally it is seeing a Greek flag flying over the Acropolis and learning that a Greek soldier wrapped himself in it and jumped off the shear walls to his death to keep from having to give it to the Germans after being required to take it down at gunpoint.

The flag at the Acropolis

I am speaking more here of the fascinating recent history of this birthplace of western civilization. More so even the history of a people that--like Theo finding his way to America--Persevere. It was mesmerizing to sit at the rooftop bar of the Gran Britagne Hotel--which was the headquarters of the Nazi commandant and later the British army--and with the Parthanon in the background to listen to Theo describe how he as a police officer was given the honor of taking down the Nazi flag in the villages he served and that they still have the pistol of such a celebrity. You learn that a Greek policeman had an uncle in Alabama who sent him a ticket to fly to America from London and $40 to get from Pareskevi to London. After taking some wrong turns he ended up in Yugoslavia and then Brussels low on money. A Greek doctor learned of his plight and let him borrow a lab coat so he could eat free in the hospital cafeteria in London while waiting for his flight. The rest is American history. Theo loves the U.S. He worked 47 years making orange juice and retired at 89. The real gold watch he was given was passed around to all the travelers on the rooftop overlooking Stygmata Square. He is an American who also loves to return to visit his Greek family. How he ended up in America is a good story. And we Americans should all be glad he--and many others like him--made it.

We arrive in Athens - Sunday, May 10, 2015

We arrived in Athens this morning (actually it was 2 am in Atlanta) and hit the ground running.  Chris, Uncle Theo, and Uncle Christos met us at the airport and helped us navigate the 45 minute train ride into Syntagma Square to check into our hotels.  Uncle Christos has not come to Athens since 1968, but was so excited that all of these American relatives were coming to visit that he wanted to be a part of the welcome party.  He speaks no English, but is so cheerful and sweet that he is joy to be around. We walked a lot, watched the changing of the guard at the Parliament Building and all had lunch together.  Everyone separated to explore different areas of the city and we met up to watch the sunset on the rooftop bar of the Hotel Grande Bretagne.  What a beautiful view! This was the first Mother's Day without my mother, so it seemed perfect that I would arrive in Greece on this day making this meaningful journey for both of us. 

We will start another early day tomorrow after tonight's sleep wipes away the remnants of jet lag.  Katie flies in to join us and our merry group grows larger!

Greece Trip Update No. 6

Hello Everyone!

I've been pretty much going non-stop over here working on the Papanikolaou Family Reunion.  Today i met with one of the musicians and he auditioned for me.  He owns a small grocery store, and plays music at night.  The guy is amazing.  Known as the finest bouzouki player in all of Halkidiki.

Good news for you... I will NOT be playing the bouzouki.  But I'm holding a 3,000 euro bouzouki!

You will be impressed with the tremendous feast they have planned.  They are pretty much turning the school yard at the Gregory Papanikolaou (Pappas) school into Greek restaurant.  With an area for dancing.  Trust me, with all the ouzo... Everyone will be dancing.

They are trying to produce an itinerary for your time in the village.  This is a rough itinerary below (I really don't want it too regimented...  But remember you're here for family time.... And you're related to two entire villages.  So everyone wants some time with "our American cousins."

Wed - May 13th - Since Dorris and others will be arriving at the Porto Valista Hotel in Paliouri late (I'm guessing around 8;30 or later), we will be having dinner at Despina's house around 10:00 p..m (which is normal dinner time for most Greeks).  All of you please feel free to take your time in Thessaloniki.  My Dad will be giving all of us a short tour along the waterfront, and we'll all have lunch together at one of the waterfront cafes.  The waterfront in Thessaloniki is beautiful.  Good news:  Cousin Yannis is going to meet us at the train station with his truck.  He can strap down all our luggage in the back.  This will make the van ride much more comfortable.  He'll deliver it to the hotel.  I can have them place it in your room for you.

We will be dining outside under the stars on Wednesday evening.  Despina has a beautiful home.  I think we should all arrive together at Despina's house together so they can all welcome us at the same time.  Those arriving earlier can relax at the hotel. 

BRIING YOUR FAMILY PHOTOS ON A FLASH CARD (USB).  They are moving a TV outside so we can all learn about each other.  I'll attach my laptop, and we'll plug in the flash card  Remember, don't just bring posed family portraits.  Bring some photos showing what you like to do for fun, your house, your car, basically your life!

Thursday - May 14th - Morning - meet in Paliouri.  My Dad will escort you around the village.  It's quite scenic in the square.  Our group will draw lots of attention.  We will work our way up to the church (which has a fantastic view over the area).  There will be have a private service with the priest. (He's retired... but he's coming out of retirement for this special occasion).  Our cousin Konstantina is going to try her best to translate for us (he English is fantastic, it's just this priest talks a lot).

Thursday - early afternoon - Go to Paraskevi and see Gregory's Schoolhouse and walk around the village.  We'll also visit Gregory's old house (It's also where my grandfather was born and raised) also). 

Notice:  Once we tour Gregory's school... You will not be allowed to see it again until you arrive to the party.  They want to surprise all of you.  Also Greeks like to fire guns at important events.  There will be shotguns firing at the party. (Not all the time... just at the start).  Believe it or not they fire guns even at Easter!

There is a small museum in Paraskevi and the curator (Leonidas) would like all of you to tour it.  He's a retired school teacher and speaks English. 

Thursday Evening - Have fun visiting with your long, lost family.  Since we're starting early, hopefully this will not go on until 2:00 a.m.

We will be arriving at Gregory's school around 7:00 p.m... With dinner beginning around 8:00 p.m. 

Friday - May 15th - Morning - Yannis is planning the Greek Hay Ride to take all of us together in his large truck he uses for the bee hives.  It will easily fit all of us.  You will probably be standing much of the time.  We will get a grand tour of the entire area, up through the hills.  You will get to see olive orchards with the same trees that were there when Gregory was a boy.  (I hope you enjoy this... I find it very special to sit under the same olive tree that my father slept under as a boy).  Hopefully you'll feel the same way.  It will almost connect you with Gregory.  Olive trees live for hundreds of years.  My father will show you the family olive trees. 

Here's a photo (though late and not very good taken yesterday).

I hope you find this as a special treat... Yiorgos (George) who is a very old sheep herder would like you to come and visit him (and his flock).  And your guessed it... He's another cousin!

Here's Yiorgos and my father... Very nice person. 

Friday - afternoon - Lunch at a cousins restaurant or cousins house.  We will probably walk down to the beach area below our hotel.  Very nice.

Friday evening - Farewell dinner held at Despina's house.  BRING A BOX OF TISSUES... You'll need it. Saying goodbye to these persons that have showed you such an outpouring of love is very difficult.  There will be lots of crying.  When the Greeks start crying it get's me crying.  Since we're having to leave so early on Saturday this will probably be the last chance to see everyone....

At least on THIS trip... I'm hoping all of you get bitten by the "Greek bug" and come back with us other years.

Better run... Love to all of you and see you soon in Athens!

Chris, Uncle Theo, and a large band of crazy Greek cousins

Hello from Greece No. 4

Hello Everyone!

I have to ask... Did anyone figure out what we were having for lunch in the other e-mail?  See closeup photo below:  

Here's cousin Nikos (Despina's husband) preparing them for lunch (more of an hor d'oeuvres).  Think of them similar to caviar or escargot....  If you guessed sea urchins... you'd be correct!

The eggs inside are very similar to caviar (but not quite as salty).  Nikos harvested these from the sea less than an hour before they were served.  This along with fresh fish.  Delicious!

We made a trip to Thessaloniki today, and on the way stopped by the American Farm School.  I know some of you went there for a summer.  The purpose of the trip was to visit Aunt Maro and Aunt Tula.  We also needed to pick up some lighting for the party.  We're hoping for nice weather on May 14th, but you never know.  We're on the very end of the rainy season.  If they're predicting rain, the party will be in the schoolhouse.  I hope it will be outside so we can have the Greek Dancers.  Depending on how many actually show up, we're probably looking at 65 cousins.  Everyone here is related some how.  

As I've been going around the village I've been kissed so many times I feel like a celebrity.  The ladies were trying to decide on what type of flower arrangements for the party (all harvested from the hills.. nothing purchased from a florist).  The surrounding hills are covered with wildflowers.   

Below is a photo on the return trip.  This is Fokea, which is where Nekatria's husband Yannis was born.  

This is an old medieval fortress built to protect the harbor from pirates.  You'll pass by this on your way to the village.

Better run... I haven't eaten anything in over an hour and the family is convinced I need to eat again.  I think they're trying their best to make sure I can't wear any of my clothes on the return flight home.  Here's my current snack!

It never hurts when one of your cousins happens to own the bakery in the village.....  Despina works there also.

How can you say "no" to this sweet person....  I'm also staying at her and Niko's house.

Love to all... and see you soon!

Chris and Uncle Theo

News from Paraskevi

Here is yesterday's email from Chris keeping those of us who will soon be joining him apprised of plans in the village:

 

Hello Everyone!

I hope you are all getting excited about the trip.  Everyone certainly is here in the village.  Today I went to Paraskevi and sat with some more of our Papanikolaou cousins.  News Flash:  One of the older women brought out a box of photos she said was sent to her/given to her by Gregory Pappas.  I had never seen ANY of these photos before.  She was nice enough to loan them to me so I can make copies in a neighboring town tomorrow.

Helen, she has a fantastic photo of (I think) your mother and Uncle Pete.  She also had some very old photos of all the Papanikolaous (Gregory's brothers and sisters) in a group photo.  Also a very old photo of what looks like Venizelos  (in his uniform) with Gregory and Bess, and I think a very young Aunt Helen and others.  This is how you find family treasures and history by talking to these very old Greeks.

I visited the hotel today (Porto Valitsa).  They're anxious for our arrival.  It's off season here, so the cliffside bar won't be open, but the view from their restaurant is pretty spectacular.  Our cousin Nikos helped build this place.

Family Reunion Update:  We have a three piece Greek traditional group playing, also the local community is providing their dance troupe to perform for us. We are tentatively looking at starting the party at 8:00 p.m..  Definitely bring a light jacket (the nights are still cool in the hills). The party will be outside.   I'm working on the menu tomorrow.  It will, of course, involve some sort of animal roasted whole, plus lots of other food.  I'd recommend long sleeves and pants/long dresses since Paraskevi is close to the water and there are mosquitoes.  (we are looking at getting the area sprayed before the party).  Men:  Definitely a button up shirt.  They are preparing a banner welcoming everyone.  Believe it not they're considering fireworks... (Please don't expect anything resembling what we do in the U.S.). 

Uncle Christos will be joining us in Athens.  He's so excited to see all of you, he couldn't wait for you to get to Paliouri.  Seen here with my father, so you'll recognize him.  He's lived a hard life as a farmer, bee keeper, and has survived three wars, and is arguably the nicest person you will ever meet.  See photo below with Uncle Theo and Uncle Christos.

That's it for now.  Anymore and I'm sure I'll overload the entire Internet network in Greece.  I literally have to hold my laptop out the window to get a strong enough signal to send e-mails.  

Love to all...

Chris and Uncle Theo (soon to be joined by many others)