Another Day, another ruin - Tuesday, May 12, 2015

We started the day early to be at the Parthenon when it opened for the best uncrowded group photos possible.  The pictures are going to be fantastic, and once again, even Uncles Theo and Christos made the climb with us.  Everywhere we go, Uncle Theo tells folks that we are his American Greek family come to visit.  He has an infectious laugh and loving spirit.  We also saw the Temple of Zeus and the Olympic Stadium (completely marble).  Chris snagged a free selfie stick when he purchased a tripod, so Tori took several group selfies.  Hope to get one to post on the blog soon.

Our site seeing was finished before lunch and everyone scattered for their own desired activities.  A lot of shopping took place, I fear.  Carter and I decided that we had to try McDonalds while in Greece.  I ordered the Greek Mac meal.  Not bad.

Dinner together tonight with live music.  They even played "Sweet Home Alabama" in our honor.  Dennis was celebrating a birthday, so the chef sent out cake and ice cream and we sang "Happy Birthday."  Uncle Christos danced a little for us.  More shopping on the way back to our hotels.  Tomorrow is yet another early day as the train leaves the station a 7:18.  All aboard to Thessaloniki.

Meet me at the fountain - Monday, May 11, 2015

That's what we Pappi do in the a.m. and p.m.  Meet up at the fountain in Syntagma Square.   We were there this morning to see an old man who feeds many of the stray dogs that seem to live all over the city of Athens.  They are all large, calm dogs who mostly sleep on sidewalks and parks,  and peacefully coexist with the many people who bustle by them.  It appeared that this particular caretaker had visited restaurants throughout the district and brought armfuls of takeout bags of scraps which he served to his many dog friends.  He then moved on to crumbs for the pigeons.  Kindness takes many shapes, does it not?

We jumped ahead of a large school field trip and got into the Acropolis Museum early.  What an interesting place, actually built atop some of the ruins with plexiglas floors so that you may see the foundation.  So many artifacts and a really informative movie.  

We also shopped and tried to abide by Chris's advice that if the shopkeeper isn't angry when you leave, you didn't negotiate a good deal.  I think I was successful at least once.  It never feels like a vacation until I buy a new pair of earrings.....

Of course, we ate and ate.  Many pics were posted on our instagram (#pappidogreece).  We climbed rocks (even Uncle Theo who seems to continually shame us all with his agility and fitness, as he is never the one breathing hard on these

adventures), visited the Temple of Hephaestus, walked through the flea market, and walked and walked and walked.

The day came to a close with two trays of Greek pastries consumed in a outdoor pavillion.  Then we split off for night caps....I chose to listen to the pianist at the Grand Bretagne with Vickie, Dorris, and Star, and my darling Carter, our handsome escort.

History Lessons

Greek 1 (Christos) and Greek 2 (Theo)

You learn so much during travel to ancient historic places like Greece. I am not talking about Zan learning for the first time the six year old SUV she drives every day has a CD player. And I am not talking about seeing little 90 year old men (Theo and "brother" Chris) carrying luggage, walking stairs and sightseeing Athens all day with the stamina of mountain goats. What I am talking about is visiting a country that as recently as 1947 won its independence from Turkish rule. A country where the guards of the tomb of their unknown soldier wear skirts with 300 pleats to remind them of the 300 year oppression of Moslem kings. A country where they erected a statue (see Helen's post) to a Greek Orthodox priest who, when ordered by Nazi occupiers to provide a list of Jews in Athens gave them a list with only one name: His. Finally it is seeing a Greek flag flying over the Acropolis and learning that a Greek soldier wrapped himself in it and jumped off the shear walls to his death to keep from having to give it to the Germans after being required to take it down at gunpoint.

The flag at the Acropolis

I am speaking more here of the fascinating recent history of this birthplace of western civilization. More so even the history of a people that--like Theo finding his way to America--Persevere. It was mesmerizing to sit at the rooftop bar of the Gran Britagne Hotel--which was the headquarters of the Nazi commandant and later the British army--and with the Parthanon in the background to listen to Theo describe how he as a police officer was given the honor of taking down the Nazi flag in the villages he served and that they still have the pistol of such a celebrity. You learn that a Greek policeman had an uncle in Alabama who sent him a ticket to fly to America from London and $40 to get from Pareskevi to London. After taking some wrong turns he ended up in Yugoslavia and then Brussels low on money. A Greek doctor learned of his plight and let him borrow a lab coat so he could eat free in the hospital cafeteria in London while waiting for his flight. The rest is American history. Theo loves the U.S. He worked 47 years making orange juice and retired at 89. The real gold watch he was given was passed around to all the travelers on the rooftop overlooking Stygmata Square. He is an American who also loves to return to visit his Greek family. How he ended up in America is a good story. And we Americans should all be glad he--and many others like him--made it.

We arrive in Athens - Sunday, May 10, 2015

We arrived in Athens this morning (actually it was 2 am in Atlanta) and hit the ground running.  Chris, Uncle Theo, and Uncle Christos met us at the airport and helped us navigate the 45 minute train ride into Syntagma Square to check into our hotels.  Uncle Christos has not come to Athens since 1968, but was so excited that all of these American relatives were coming to visit that he wanted to be a part of the welcome party.  He speaks no English, but is so cheerful and sweet that he is joy to be around. We walked a lot, watched the changing of the guard at the Parliament Building and all had lunch together.  Everyone separated to explore different areas of the city and we met up to watch the sunset on the rooftop bar of the Hotel Grande Bretagne.  What a beautiful view! This was the first Mother's Day without my mother, so it seemed perfect that I would arrive in Greece on this day making this meaningful journey for both of us. 

We will start another early day tomorrow after tonight's sleep wipes away the remnants of jet lag.  Katie flies in to join us and our merry group grows larger!

Greece Trip Update No. 6

Hello Everyone!

I've been pretty much going non-stop over here working on the Papanikolaou Family Reunion.  Today i met with one of the musicians and he auditioned for me.  He owns a small grocery store, and plays music at night.  The guy is amazing.  Known as the finest bouzouki player in all of Halkidiki.

Good news for you... I will NOT be playing the bouzouki.  But I'm holding a 3,000 euro bouzouki!

You will be impressed with the tremendous feast they have planned.  They are pretty much turning the school yard at the Gregory Papanikolaou (Pappas) school into Greek restaurant.  With an area for dancing.  Trust me, with all the ouzo... Everyone will be dancing.

They are trying to produce an itinerary for your time in the village.  This is a rough itinerary below (I really don't want it too regimented...  But remember you're here for family time.... And you're related to two entire villages.  So everyone wants some time with "our American cousins."

Wed - May 13th - Since Dorris and others will be arriving at the Porto Valista Hotel in Paliouri late (I'm guessing around 8;30 or later), we will be having dinner at Despina's house around 10:00 p..m (which is normal dinner time for most Greeks).  All of you please feel free to take your time in Thessaloniki.  My Dad will be giving all of us a short tour along the waterfront, and we'll all have lunch together at one of the waterfront cafes.  The waterfront in Thessaloniki is beautiful.  Good news:  Cousin Yannis is going to meet us at the train station with his truck.  He can strap down all our luggage in the back.  This will make the van ride much more comfortable.  He'll deliver it to the hotel.  I can have them place it in your room for you.

We will be dining outside under the stars on Wednesday evening.  Despina has a beautiful home.  I think we should all arrive together at Despina's house together so they can all welcome us at the same time.  Those arriving earlier can relax at the hotel. 

BRIING YOUR FAMILY PHOTOS ON A FLASH CARD (USB).  They are moving a TV outside so we can all learn about each other.  I'll attach my laptop, and we'll plug in the flash card  Remember, don't just bring posed family portraits.  Bring some photos showing what you like to do for fun, your house, your car, basically your life!

Thursday - May 14th - Morning - meet in Paliouri.  My Dad will escort you around the village.  It's quite scenic in the square.  Our group will draw lots of attention.  We will work our way up to the church (which has a fantastic view over the area).  There will be have a private service with the priest. (He's retired... but he's coming out of retirement for this special occasion).  Our cousin Konstantina is going to try her best to translate for us (he English is fantastic, it's just this priest talks a lot).

Thursday - early afternoon - Go to Paraskevi and see Gregory's Schoolhouse and walk around the village.  We'll also visit Gregory's old house (It's also where my grandfather was born and raised) also). 

Notice:  Once we tour Gregory's school... You will not be allowed to see it again until you arrive to the party.  They want to surprise all of you.  Also Greeks like to fire guns at important events.  There will be shotguns firing at the party. (Not all the time... just at the start).  Believe it or not they fire guns even at Easter!

There is a small museum in Paraskevi and the curator (Leonidas) would like all of you to tour it.  He's a retired school teacher and speaks English. 

Thursday Evening - Have fun visiting with your long, lost family.  Since we're starting early, hopefully this will not go on until 2:00 a.m.

We will be arriving at Gregory's school around 7:00 p.m... With dinner beginning around 8:00 p.m. 

Friday - May 15th - Morning - Yannis is planning the Greek Hay Ride to take all of us together in his large truck he uses for the bee hives.  It will easily fit all of us.  You will probably be standing much of the time.  We will get a grand tour of the entire area, up through the hills.  You will get to see olive orchards with the same trees that were there when Gregory was a boy.  (I hope you enjoy this... I find it very special to sit under the same olive tree that my father slept under as a boy).  Hopefully you'll feel the same way.  It will almost connect you with Gregory.  Olive trees live for hundreds of years.  My father will show you the family olive trees. 

Here's a photo (though late and not very good taken yesterday).

I hope you find this as a special treat... Yiorgos (George) who is a very old sheep herder would like you to come and visit him (and his flock).  And your guessed it... He's another cousin!

Here's Yiorgos and my father... Very nice person. 

Friday - afternoon - Lunch at a cousins restaurant or cousins house.  We will probably walk down to the beach area below our hotel.  Very nice.

Friday evening - Farewell dinner held at Despina's house.  BRING A BOX OF TISSUES... You'll need it. Saying goodbye to these persons that have showed you such an outpouring of love is very difficult.  There will be lots of crying.  When the Greeks start crying it get's me crying.  Since we're having to leave so early on Saturday this will probably be the last chance to see everyone....

At least on THIS trip... I'm hoping all of you get bitten by the "Greek bug" and come back with us other years.

Better run... Love to all of you and see you soon in Athens!

Chris, Uncle Theo, and a large band of crazy Greek cousins

Hello from Greece No. 4

Hello Everyone!

I have to ask... Did anyone figure out what we were having for lunch in the other e-mail?  See closeup photo below:  

Here's cousin Nikos (Despina's husband) preparing them for lunch (more of an hor d'oeuvres).  Think of them similar to caviar or escargot....  If you guessed sea urchins... you'd be correct!

The eggs inside are very similar to caviar (but not quite as salty).  Nikos harvested these from the sea less than an hour before they were served.  This along with fresh fish.  Delicious!

We made a trip to Thessaloniki today, and on the way stopped by the American Farm School.  I know some of you went there for a summer.  The purpose of the trip was to visit Aunt Maro and Aunt Tula.  We also needed to pick up some lighting for the party.  We're hoping for nice weather on May 14th, but you never know.  We're on the very end of the rainy season.  If they're predicting rain, the party will be in the schoolhouse.  I hope it will be outside so we can have the Greek Dancers.  Depending on how many actually show up, we're probably looking at 65 cousins.  Everyone here is related some how.  

As I've been going around the village I've been kissed so many times I feel like a celebrity.  The ladies were trying to decide on what type of flower arrangements for the party (all harvested from the hills.. nothing purchased from a florist).  The surrounding hills are covered with wildflowers.   

Below is a photo on the return trip.  This is Fokea, which is where Nekatria's husband Yannis was born.  

This is an old medieval fortress built to protect the harbor from pirates.  You'll pass by this on your way to the village.

Better run... I haven't eaten anything in over an hour and the family is convinced I need to eat again.  I think they're trying their best to make sure I can't wear any of my clothes on the return flight home.  Here's my current snack!

It never hurts when one of your cousins happens to own the bakery in the village.....  Despina works there also.

How can you say "no" to this sweet person....  I'm also staying at her and Niko's house.

Love to all... and see you soon!

Chris and Uncle Theo

News from Paraskevi

Here is yesterday's email from Chris keeping those of us who will soon be joining him apprised of plans in the village:

 

Hello Everyone!

I hope you are all getting excited about the trip.  Everyone certainly is here in the village.  Today I went to Paraskevi and sat with some more of our Papanikolaou cousins.  News Flash:  One of the older women brought out a box of photos she said was sent to her/given to her by Gregory Pappas.  I had never seen ANY of these photos before.  She was nice enough to loan them to me so I can make copies in a neighboring town tomorrow.

Helen, she has a fantastic photo of (I think) your mother and Uncle Pete.  She also had some very old photos of all the Papanikolaous (Gregory's brothers and sisters) in a group photo.  Also a very old photo of what looks like Venizelos  (in his uniform) with Gregory and Bess, and I think a very young Aunt Helen and others.  This is how you find family treasures and history by talking to these very old Greeks.

I visited the hotel today (Porto Valitsa).  They're anxious for our arrival.  It's off season here, so the cliffside bar won't be open, but the view from their restaurant is pretty spectacular.  Our cousin Nikos helped build this place.

Family Reunion Update:  We have a three piece Greek traditional group playing, also the local community is providing their dance troupe to perform for us. We are tentatively looking at starting the party at 8:00 p.m..  Definitely bring a light jacket (the nights are still cool in the hills). The party will be outside.   I'm working on the menu tomorrow.  It will, of course, involve some sort of animal roasted whole, plus lots of other food.  I'd recommend long sleeves and pants/long dresses since Paraskevi is close to the water and there are mosquitoes.  (we are looking at getting the area sprayed before the party).  Men:  Definitely a button up shirt.  They are preparing a banner welcoming everyone.  Believe it not they're considering fireworks... (Please don't expect anything resembling what we do in the U.S.). 

Uncle Christos will be joining us in Athens.  He's so excited to see all of you, he couldn't wait for you to get to Paliouri.  Seen here with my father, so you'll recognize him.  He's lived a hard life as a farmer, bee keeper, and has survived three wars, and is arguably the nicest person you will ever meet.  See photo below with Uncle Theo and Uncle Christos.

That's it for now.  Anymore and I'm sure I'll overload the entire Internet network in Greece.  I literally have to hold my laptop out the window to get a strong enough signal to send e-mails.  

Love to all...

Chris and Uncle Theo (soon to be joined by many others)