On island time

Tuesday, May 19, 2015

Gorgeous breakfast buffet in our hotel with great views of the harbor.  Everything was delicious.  Our mission of the morning (those of us who have not previously visited Myconos) was to take the first ferry to the small island of Delos, just two miles away and tour on our own.  If you are familiar with Greek mythology, Delos is the island where the twins, Artemis and Apollo, offspring of Zeus and Leto were born.  Hera, Zeus's wife, was so angry over Zeus's infidelity that she banished Leto from earth.  Poisedon took pity on her, however, and allowed her to give birth on the island of Delos (translation, Brilliant). Most of the excavated ruins center around the theme of honoring Apollo.  My favorite site was the Terrace of Lions which originally overlooked the Sacred Lake (now drained) where the sacred geese and swans of Apollo swam.

We took our return ferry back to Myconos and several cousins had their rented four wheelers ready to ride.  Carter and I had decided to forgo that mode of transportation this time, so we ate lunch and then took a cab to Ornos Beach.  Our taxi driver truly delighted in terrifying me.  He drove fast, passed cars on curves, laughed as we tightened our seat belts.  Thank goodness we survived our 'Crazy Greek's Wild Ride,' because the beach was lovely.  Lounge chairs with umbrellas to rent and fair winds made for a delightful afternoon.

After returning to Harmony Boutique, we all enjoyed cocktails on the pool deck and then had supper together.

It was a fabulous meal and the famed white pelican of Myconos even walked past our table.  More shopping wrapped up the evening with Dennis presenting Tuffy with a very special necklace as a token of the trip.

Planes, trains, vans, ATVs, and now, at last, BOATS Monday, May 18, 2015

Monday, May18, 2015

Today we left Santorini, sadly waving good-bye to Katie, Zach, and Ryan as we loaded our van to head to the port.  They all had to get back to work and so were spending a final day in Santorini,after which Zach and Ryan would head home to Brussels and Katie would begin her flights home to Columbus.  (She ended up being delayed in Athens, missing her connection, and spending a night in New York, but was lucky that her Uncle Bill was home and could rescue her for the night.)  We arrived at the port in Santorini in plenty of time to catch our Master Jet ferry to Mykonos.  Chris had recommended that we all splurge for the club class seats, so we were all sitting together with great views of the sea and islands.  There was a coffee and snack bar, so it was a very pleasant ride.  Upon docking, there is a kind of herd effect when gathering your luggage from the holding area and leaving the boat, but our transfer van driver holding his 'Chris Pappas' sign was there waiting for us to drive us to our lovely hotel.  One slightly unsettling moment as we all simultaneously realized that he was driving away with the luggage door open....luckily no bags spilled out.  Our hotel was the Harmony Boutique situated at the merge of the old and new harbors and a very easy walk to restaurants and shopping.  Everything was blue and white like I had always pictured when thinking of the Greek islands.  All of our rooms were serene with individual balconies and patios.  There was a beautiful pool in the front of the hotel with a great bar and fabulous views of the harbor.

After checking in, we walked into the shopping district and found more delcious gyros for lunch and then everyone scattered on various shopping/coffee/pastry missions.  Chris and Amy began serious jewelry negotiations.  Others found soft Greek cotton shirts, sterling earrings and necklaces, etc.  The shops were in a maze of streets and it was easy for the directionally challenged like myself to get lost, but there was always another great store, cafe, or speak-easy around the next bend.  This shopping district was a lot less hilly than in Santorini, so that was very nice.  Mykonos, while still full of history, had a more tropical feel.  I really liked it.

We met at the hotel's pool bar for sunset cocktails.  Beautiful!  Then, we walked into town for supper al fresco and planned for our next day on this magical island.

It's A Santorini Kind of Sunday -Sunday, May 17,2015

Sunday, May 17. 2015

We had to walk to the ferry ticket office to pick up our tickets for tomorrow's departure. so that was our first mission of the day.  It was easy.  We chose our different paths for the rest of the day, so Carter and I rented a four-wheeler along with Dorris, Emily, Star, Katie, Ryan, and Zach.  We looked like a very unassuming little biker gang cruising around the island.  It was so much fun.  We drove to Perissa Beach and relaxed in beach chairs for a couple of hours.  Our cute waiter brought us our lunch and drinks.  A little shopping later and we were back on the open road heading towards the Thera Archaeological Museum.  Very cool place, as a museum building has been built around the excavated ruins.

We next headed to Red Beach, which is very cool looking. You have to climb a rocky slope and then walk along the edge of the cliff and down to reach the beach.  While Carter was videoing the descent of our cousins along the ridge, I slipped on some rocks, so we never made it to the beach.  I have a few more bruises to add to the one from getting out of the van in the dark the other night.  I will return home looking more like I have been to some kind of survival camp, I fear.  Anyway, after this crimson stop, it was back to the Ersi Villas.

We met up later to watch the sunset, but some shoppers among us were pulled away by the call of stores closing at 9 pm. Stacia, Emily, Star, Carter, and I hurried to the Konsantino store in search of fabulous jewelry.  Our quest was rewarded and we all left happy (except Carter really didn't know what we were shopping for when he hurried off with us; he mostly just told us how incredible everything looked on us).

We met up with the family for a wonderful dinner on the top terrace of Taverna Simos.  It was perfectly delightful and was made very special by the personable waiter, Alex.  It was a great note to end our time on the lovely island of Santorini.  We leave tomorrow for Mykonos.

Our not so calm departure - Saturday, May 16, 215

Saturday, May 16, 2015

One thing that is very important to understand if you are traveling with Chris Pappas is that he is a morning person.  If you don't leave early, you are just missing part of the day at your destination. Thus, we all booked the same flight that he, Amy, Alexi, and Konstantina were on from Thessaloniki to Athens and then on to Santorini.  This meant getting up at 3:30 am to load our vans by 4:15 to drive to the airport and make our 7:20 flight.  It was settled.  Everyone set their alarms and we were on track.  Sometime around 3:30, Dennis happened to look at his and Stacia's tickets and realized that he had evidently booked the first flight of the morning at 6:40 ( I think if Chris had known of the existence of this earlier flight, we would have all been on it).  Anyway, panic ensued.  Thank goodness we had the entire hotel to ourselves, because there was some yelling going on.  It was quite dark and we are throwing suitcases into vans, getting ourselves in, and driving to the airport at a slightly uncomfortable speed.  Luckily, the rest of the world around us seemed to be sleeping.  All's well that ends well, and it was fine.  Dennis and Stacia made their flight and were waiting for us in Athens to board the next leg.  By the way, Aegean Airlines has the most beautiful, stylish flight attendants I have ever seen.

There was another hiccup with Tori and Vickie's flights home in that their connection in Munich was going to be very tight, so there was concern that they might miss their flight to the states.  We all felt better when Vickie texted that they barely made it onto their connection.  It was sad to see them leave us, but after all Tori is getting married in two weeks.  They had a few things to do at home.

For some reason, at the Athens Airport we had to go back through security.  This was not so good for me and Star.  Without really thinking about it, we had put our beautiful gift baskets from the family in our carry-on bags.  There wasn't a problem at Thessaloniki, but in Athens they caught it and pulled our bottles of ouzo, olive oil, olives, and honey.  I burst into tears at the thought of these beautiful, handmade things being tossed in a trash can.  Fortunately, we had plenty of time, so we were able to check the bags and keep our gifts (at an price of $30 per bag).

Upon arrival, we were greeted by a transportation van to get us and our luggage to our cute hotel.  That's another thing you should know about traveling with Chris Pappas......he does not miss a single detail.  After checking into our rooms at the Ersi Villas (we filled the majority of the hotel), we walked along the waterfront and had lunch on a high terrace restaurant with a great view.  Dennis generously bought everyone's lunch as an apology for the confusion of the morning departure.  It was totally unnecessary, but so very nice.  We walked around and shopped in the large shopping district during the afternoon.

That evening, Zach, Ryan, and Katie had found an ideally located wine bar to watch the sunset and sample some Santorini wines.  The sunset was beautiful.  We then walked to find McDaniel's Gyros.  I know it doesn't sound copasetic, but the gyros were fabulous.  Inspired by our perfect evening thus far, we pushed the envelope and went to a couple of bars, shot pool, drank watered down two for ones and then found a good DJ.  For some strange reason at the second bar, the DJ played some Credence Clearwater, some Aretha, then launched into 'Sweet Home Alabama.'  I think we were being geographically profiled, but it was so fun.  We older cousins left around midnight and Carter, Zach, Ryan, and Katie kept going for awhile longer.  It was a very large time.

One note.....Carter packed his gift basket items into his checked luggage like he was supposed to, however, the bottle of olive oil was broken when he unpacked his bag.  He has maybe three pieces of clothing that do not have olive oil on them.  My olives leaked in my bag also, so I lost a few outfits too.  Further note,  soap and water and a sink do not remove olive oil from fabric.  If you know how to remove olive oil from fabric, please comment below as this will be one of my first tasks upon my return home.  In the meantime, any pictures of Carter from here on may all be in the same clothes.  Yet, who can cry over spilled oil when you are in Santorini, Greece?!    

Sea and Sky - Friday, May 15, 2015

Boo-Boo and Tuffy enjoy breakfast overlooking the Aegean Sea at Porto Valitsa

Friday 15 May 8:00 a.m. Porto Valitsa Hotel, Paliouri. 64 F. Partly cloudy. Breakfast on terrace looking out over the Aegean Sea with Boo Boo the Greek kitty trying to eat off the table. After a short drive to the large beach around the point, we boarded the Leftoros for a morning cruise to the uninhabited island of Kelifos. Actually the island has residents: a herd of wild brush goats wander the high areas. After a few Mythos beers, the diving began. Some in swim suits, some in their underwear. Water was cold but refreshing and clear.

1350 hrs: Drove to Christos' house in Paliouri for a "Hayride" in the back of a bee hive truck to the mountain fields where "Big" Giannis puts out their bees. We traveled over roads with shear drops off both sides. It was good it was an all-wheel drive Mercedes truck. When got to the top, we could see the ocean off both sides of the Kassandra peninsula. Christos and Theo walked the areas where they herded goats.

1550 hrs: returned to town for a brief soccer match at the town's fotbol stadium with views of the sea. Nikkos  Matami was a former pro player and can still dribble with skill. He could have scored on me at will but would pass to others near the goal. Young Giannis (on leave from the Greek army) showed some good moves also. The Matami triplets were fun to play with too. Made a few stops but Tori Krutzer blasted one high into the corner of the net for the winning score. We only lost one player to injury (Ryan).  Many would be sore in the morning. Soccer balls are surprisingly hard.

A tearful farewell

1900 hrs: Farewell dinner at Despina and Nikko's house. There were exchanges of tearful toasts and some handmade gifts of olives and honey. We could only offer booze. Triandifyllia (30 leaves) had her gift from Amy Pappas of an "Olaf" doll in a place of honor near her Pegasus doll. We showed the Greek cousins slides of our family pictures. Next time, we would be advised to impose a slide limit. In any event, slides showing our houses, boats and cars were of greater interest to our hosts. Saying goodbye- especially to Christos-was hard. Greg Pappas was bawling like a baby after Christos said (translated by Konstantina) he wanted us to return even if he was not still alive. We will miss our little troll doll, Christos, and his infectious smile. He was proudly wearing his "Alabama" pin as he waved us farewell. Greg wants to see "Greek 1" again in two years. Given their amazing stamina, my bet is that he will.

A Night to Remember - Thursday night, May 14 2015

Continuing on Thursday afternoon (May 14th), we had some free time in the afternoon.  Some shopped, some went to the beach, and others napped.  Then, it was time to get ready for the huge Papanikolaou Family Reunion Party.  We all arrived together and were greeted warmly.  The tables were beautifully decorated with wildflower arrangements and Greek and American flag centerpieces.  A huge welcome banner hung in front of the doors to the school.  We were taken inside to tour the building and saw the pictures of our grandparents hanging in the hallway.  Some old family photos had been enlarged and were also on display.  Seeing this picture of my mother with Uncle Pete working in the Pappas Restaurant in Eufaula brought tears to my eyes.

There was a goat on a spit plus many other meats on the grills (the meal was catered by a local restaurant and was delicious and plentiful.)  Live music and Greek dancers added to the enjoyment.  It was such a perfect event in a beautiful setting that it was almost surreal.  "Is this really my life or am I dreaming it?"  Before dinner, both the Greek National Anthem and the Star Spangled Banner were played.  We were all so proud to be both Greek and American that tears streamed down many of our faces as we sang.  We, of course, ate and drank and danced and danced and danced.  A circle of fire was lighted around some dancers.  Napkins were tossed in the air (in lieu of breaking plates, I believe), and then the hunters among us (several men and Tori) were invited to shoot guns.  Not sure why....it's just something they do.  Special day-glo hats and vests were given to all shooting participants.  Desserts followed.  More wine, more dancing, and young Giannis (home for the weekend from the Greek Army) invited many of our younger folks to join him in shots of tequila.  Finally, we had to let the party wind down like a favorite toy at the end of a complete day.

  You know, as Southerners, we pride ourselves on the hospitality we display to our guests, but I have to say that I have never experienced anything like what this family and this community did for us.  We felt so honored, so loved, so humbled that I cannot even put it into words.  That night, especially, is something that I will never forget.

  

Our Greek family is amazing - Wednesday, May 13 and the day of Thursday, May 14, 2015

We had an incredible time in Paliouri and Paraskevi meeting our family and participating in so many great activities and events.  The villas that Chris found for us were incredible.  Porto Valitsa was the name and we filled the entire complex.  Each villa was both lovely and unique, and the staff there were wonderful to us all.  Leon and the other dogs made us miss our own furry family a little less.

The only downside was a very poor internet connection that came and went (mostly went) and made it impossible to blog.  Some of us were able to post on Instagram here and there. To begin to summarize the events beginning on Wednesday, we left Athens early in the morning via train and arrived in Thessaloniki where Giannis and Lambrose met us with a empty pick-up truck to carry our luggage to the villas in Paliouri.  We rented three large vans to transport ourselves.  Greg (now known as Gregorius), Chris, and Dennis were our devoted drivers.  Our first engagement was dinner at cousin Despina's home.  We were overwhelmed with the loving display of hospitality.  Long tables decorated beautifully greeted us upon arrival, and we were served cocktails, figs, and given corsages.  The meal was incredible.  We brought gifts for the children and beverages for the adults.  Konstantina and Theo stayed busy interpreting for us.  There was music, dancing and fellowship.



Thursday morning was a truly special day.  Breakfast at the villas was wonderful.  Then, we all went to Paliouri to the church for a special service where the priest blessed our family.  This was even more special because this priest was present at the original dedication of the school Grandpa built in the village of Paraskevi.  The service was very moving, and Nektaria made coffee and had cookies for us in the courtyard afterwards.

Next, we drove to Paraskevi to see the Gregory Pappas School.  We only saw the outside in the morning, as the community wanted to save many things as a surprise for that night when the huge party took place.  The school sits high on a hill overlooking the village and is still a very pretty building.  The original playground equipment still sits in the school yard.

Uncle Theo told me that he had offered to pay someone to paint the school for the celebration, but the community told him that they would be honored to paint it for the family of Gregory Pappas.  We continued to be awed with the generosity of these lovely people.  The building is no longer used as a school, because the population of Paraskevi has diminished, but is now utilized as a community center.

We walked through the village and went to Grandpa's boyhood home, which is now unoccupied.  We got to go inside.  It was very moving to see the humble abode of our grandfather and realize what it must have meant to send him to America at the age of 14 in search of a better life.  A neighbor living next door saw us and cut roses from her garden to give to us.  Again, the capacity to give and give was overwhelming.

Then, we walked to the town museum which they opened that day just for us.  What a lovely museum  tracing the history of the Greek people and honoring those from the village .  We then found our Aunt Zafero's house and met her.  She is 95 years old and babysat Uncle Theo when he was a young boy. She was named after our grandfather's mother, who was also Zafero.  His grandmother's name was Helen, for whom he named my mother and she named me.  

After all of this visiting, we returned to Porto Valitsa for lunch and afternoon activities.  Some folks went to the beach.  Some went shopping.

I will stop here for tonight, as it is late and there is so much more to tell.......  I will try to continue to catch up tomorrow.